disco1946
Mouse Dipper
Reged: Jul 01 2007
Posts: 656
Loc: Mesa, Arizona
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Perth
Assuming you have a safe load, and the bullet will chamber, It is shootable, and you will have a nicely fireformed cased after firing. If you have trouble chambering the round, don't force it. Remove it pull the bullet and either discard or resize the case.
Dave
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I would rather have a sister who is a prostitute, than a brother who is a liberal.
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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Thanks. I pulled the bullets and will neck size the brass so all is well. Thanks for the quick response, much abliged
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D. Simpson
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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Oh, can I resize a primed case? Since I pulled the bullet and dumped the charge, I still have a live primer. I suppose that I can back the decaping pin way off while I resize it and save the primer.....just thinking out loaud now : )
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D. Simpson
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disco1946
Mouse Dipper
Reged: Jul 01 2007
Posts: 656
Loc: Mesa, Arizona
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When you re size a primed case, The primer comes out. It usually doesn't even go bang.
Go gently and you will not have a problem.
I am sure you always wear safety glasses when reloading.
Dave 
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I would rather have a sister who is a prostitute, than a brother who is a liberal.
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DanS
Crown Killer
Reged: Sep 14 2003
Posts: 2234
Loc: St. Louis, MO
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Perth
I was going to send you a PM. However you are not accepting PM's.
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If it's not worth doing, then it's certainly not worth doing right.
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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DanS,
Must have changed that by mistake, I have recieved them before. I got it all fixed now. Thanks for letting me know.
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D. Simpson
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Walter
Druid
Reged: Jan 06 2006
Posts: 156
Loc: Texas north of Dallas
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the C.O.A.L. goes from 3.000 to 3.250, Sierra has 5 150gr bullets listed for the 30-06
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disco1946
Mouse Dipper
Reged: Jul 01 2007
Posts: 656
Loc: Mesa, Arizona
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Oh yeah and Dustin,
COL is just a guide line, Longer is ok if it will fit. Shorter can be bad and cause more pressure on near max loads.
Dave
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I would rather have a sister who is a prostitute, than a brother who is a liberal.
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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Thats what I was wondering was about the pressure. I envy the knowledge posessed by this board. Thanks again to everyone for teaching me to walk, so to speak. 
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D. Simpson
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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NOt sure why but I cant edit my post so here is the 200 yard target.
All are .223 5-shot groups at 200 yards. Savage 110, Harris bipod.
Fliers are human error....
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D. Simpson
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disco1946
Mouse Dipper
Reged: Jul 01 2007
Posts: 656
Loc: Mesa, Arizona
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Dustin,
Now all we gotta do is teach you how to shoot. 
Just kidding, Those are some great groups for 200 Yds.
Nice shooting.
Dave
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I would rather have a sister who is a prostitute, than a brother who is a liberal.
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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Thanks, I was between a tree row and a quonsit so there was no wind. That IMR 4320 works great. Cant wait till fall.
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D. Simpson
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DanS
Crown Killer
Reged: Sep 14 2003
Posts: 2234
Loc: St. Louis, MO
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Really nice groups. We have a public range about 100 miles south of us, and it goes to 275 yards. Someday I'll load up a few rifles and head on down there. I don't know why they stopped at 275 there is plenty of room for a bunch more yardage, I guess it's a Missouri Thang. 
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If it's not worth doing, then it's certainly not worth doing right.
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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I dont shoot at the ranges around here since you must be a member and and that costs quite a bit. We own enough ground and have enough permission to sight in pretty much where ever I happen to be in the state. I built a little bench and it works pretty good to get on target enough to be in the vitals if I drop my gun or change scopes. By the way I shoot a Barska 6.5x20x50mm. It was only like 120 bucks but works great. I have not had any problems with it yet. I would love to get a more expensive one but my motto is dont fix it it if aint broke.
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D. Simpson
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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And Here is my room.
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D. Simpson
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DanS
Crown Killer
Reged: Sep 14 2003
Posts: 2234
Loc: St. Louis, MO
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OH no, that's to darn neat and orderly. Certainly won't do. Going to have to work on that. 
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If it's not worth doing, then it's certainly not worth doing right.
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Dr Fox
Whirling Dervish
Reged: Mar 11 2005
Posts: 41
Loc: Wales, UK
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Even though I am a full time pest controller, I don’t have a need for hundreds of rounds ready loaded! I have a friend who does, he believes it looks good and gives the impression that he does a lotta shooting, but it’s not the case.
At any given time I will load a batch of 20 rounds which will start with 3 rounds for chrono and accuracy proof. Why is this? Here’s why!
I have had more trouble with powder droppers than enough, loading large bore cases gave very little trouble, but in the small neck .17 Rem ‘nightmare’. 1. Careful choice of grain size, to prevent log jams in the measure. 2. Trying to affect the same stroke value for each drop. 3. Testing on a scale the drop weight, (which only confirms that one sample). Enough, I have other things more pressing to worry about!
Remember I said if I have 20 rounds in stock I am set? Well here’s how I abandoned all the above, and saved myself a lot of bench space. I made a shell holder from scrap wood, the shell seat is spring loaded, the case is pushed down and then allowed to rise into a drop tube in .17 Rem size. Each charge is weighed and then poured into the funnel, at an even rate of fall, the charge loads without drama. I change the drop tube to 222/223 and the results are the same.
My gain!
Each powder drop is exact.
Full choice of powder types
Powder drop problems eliminated.
No hopper to fill and empty each session.
A no-charge, half charge just can’t happen.
The knowledge that every round in my box, is perfect.
Bullet is pressed when case is charged no chance of spillage.
At the end of session, scales and shell holder put on shelf to clear bench.
Should I need to load more than the usual amount of rounds, I will use this method, the use of both scales and powder dropping makes the task less tedious, the results are worth the little extra time needed.
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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okay next problem.
I went out to shoot my .300 Win Mag yesterday and shot 3 rounds, 100 yards 1" group. Good right? Well I then loaded another three rounds and fired the first shot, went to chamber the second ( I take each brass out with my hand and replace into the case ) and noticed something luckly, the bullet had fallen 90% into the case from the recoil of firing the first round. I know that I need to crimp this caliber. I read the RCBS die manual about crimping and it only talks about crimping bullets with a crimp ring. The Noslers that I shoot do not have this ring. I proceded to follow the steps to crimp them anyways and I can not tell for the life of me if it is doing anything. I have 150 of these loaded and dont really want to take them out into the wood this fall and have one fall into the brass. I also really dont want to use my gun as a single shot. Anyone have some help with crimping or a photo that shows a crimped bullet without the crimp ring?
Thanks agoain.
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D. Simpson
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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Loks like a good Idea. Over here alot of us go through 100 rounds or more a weekend shooting prairie dogs and such.
Looking at your setup it seems you are using a cut off golf tee with a spring around the shaft and a hole drilled in the base of wood to allow the spring and tee to drop and then push up with the proper tention against the case. The dimple in the golf tee for the ball makes certain that there is no pressure on the primer. Great idea. You should run it through the Pattent Department and market it to RCBS and get something in return for your inovation. Heck you may even make enought to just play and watch the royalties come in.
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D. Simpson
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DanS
Crown Killer
Reged: Sep 14 2003
Posts: 2234
Loc: St. Louis, MO
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Perth, I have never crimped my 300 Win Mag cartridges. Maybe I should, but I've nver had a problem either. maybe your not getting anough neck tension?
Anyway, go ahead and crimp a couple. Then, If you want to test your crimps hold, pull a couple bullets out of the case afer the crimp. I suppose you could pull a couple before the crimping put on to feel the difference in tension.
Either way I would test shoot then again after the crimp, not just to see itf they hold but also to check zero.
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If it's not worth doing, then it's certainly not worth doing right.
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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DanS,
This is the second batch I have reloaded and who knows, maybe it was a fluke, but I dont want to find out what happens when you shoot a round that the bullet is inside the case.
I will go out this week and shoot agian. I was all over the paper. It was almost 100 degrees and I was sweating and the bugs were terrible. I didnt make any adjustments simply because I wasnt confident in ht e human factor.
I added a little more crimp to them, I have not damaged any necks like I did on the 30-06 the other day so hopefully I am at the right setting.
Thanks Again.
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D. Simpson
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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DanS,
What load do you shoot out of your .300 Win Mag? I am trying to find one but a good starting point would be much appriciated since I have 200 empty brass right now and need to buy some powder. Thanks
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D. Simpson
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DanS
Crown Killer
Reged: Sep 14 2003
Posts: 2234
Loc: St. Louis, MO
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Here is one that I like. It has produced consistantly accurite groups. 3 Rd's @ 100 yards.
Dan
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If it's not worth doing, then it's certainly not worth doing right.
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DanS
Crown Killer
Reged: Sep 14 2003
Posts: 2234
Loc: St. Louis, MO
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After re-reading over some of these post my head is now spinning. Someone said something about getting an ulcer over this kind of thing.
First and most importantly......
Perth,
Do you own any reloading manuals? I strongly suggest you sit down and thouroughly read them. There is so much involved in this activity. Some reloaders take for granted what we feel is the obvious, but this common knowledge may not be too common. It is the off season and a few of us may joke around a bit too much, this is a serious subject.
You can get tons of knowledge off the internet, but those engineers for Hornady, Hodgdon, Sierra, etc.. put those numbers in their manuals for a reason. Red tipped white canes can become a reality.
Some of us fudge on trim lengths, cartridge OAL, and pressures. You can throw the dice, but (please) read the manuals and stick to them for now.
Another helpful tidbit is Sierra has a help hotline. I have used this many times for reload info.
Good luck,
Dan
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If it's not worth doing, then it's certainly not worth doing right.
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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Thanks,
Ya, I have a book for the .300 Win Mag that actually is most of the manuals info on that cartridge put together. With so many choices I was just curious if you had one that worked good. I am pretty carefull with my loads. I have not even came close to the max load on this caliber simply because of the pressure generated. I am curently shooting 150 Noslers and have a batch that I am making for a 150 Hornady. I found from shooting factory loads that when I shoot deer ( being so light muscled ) that the heavier loads, like 180 gr. dont expand well. I got a deal on my Ruger M77 Mark II else I would shoot a lighter gun for deer. The .300 is gods plenty to put them down. I shot 5 last year with 150 gr. federals and none went anywhere but the ground from shots at 30-250 yards.
Thanks agian for your time!
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D. Simpson
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CALOK1
Flying Missionary Positioner
Reged: Nov 25 2002
Posts: 1099
Loc: Yukon Oklahoma
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I use Hornady and Sierra reloading manuals. They have them in books and DVD's. I like the books best because when I am working up a new load I have the books right there in front of me.
Lots of good info in the front part of both.
DON'T FORGET the "Glasses".
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CAL
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Dr Fox
Whirling Dervish
Reged: Mar 11 2005
Posts: 41
Loc: Wales, UK
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Thanks for your return input! Would be nice to see such a tool, in a more professionally built standard. I cant believe it has’nt been done already.
The principle is exactly as you described it, the ‘golf tee’ is actually a straight walled .38 pistol case, inverted with a spring inside longer than the case, then as you say, applies enough pressure to locate the rifle case and keep it there.
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Willem
Whirling Dervish
Reged: Feb 10 2008
Posts: 58
Loc: Illinois
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What is that you have there between the funnel and the case neck? I only ask because with your permission I might build myself a similar contraption for reloading my .17 and my fingers were not designed for small tedious tasks like holding a small shell with a funnel and putting in an accurate charge.
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Peace...Through Fire Superiority.
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Dr Fox
Whirling Dervish
Reged: Mar 11 2005
Posts: 41
Loc: Wales, UK
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Willem
I am delighted, you find this idea of use to you. The item you refer to is a 'drop tube' in .17 cal, this is the item you would buy to fit into your powder measure. These come in all calibres.Being a wood platform, the tube will hand turn into the slight undersize hole you pre-dril.
This tool could be made to fit your favorite calibre, just by altering the different dimensions of the varios parts.
When you have finished your build show us here, I for one will be very interested in any modifications you will come up with.
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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Cal,
The manuals I use are called One Book/ One Caliber by Loadbooks USA. They contain the information from Accurate, Alliant, Barnes, Hodgdon, Hornady, IMR, Lyman, Nosler, RCBS, Sierra, Speer, and Winchester Combined into one manual for an individual cartrage. I own the .30-06, .300 Win Mag,. and the .223 Remington. I also have a full Speer manual that came with my RCBS kit. The reaon I ask some odd question is that some things I know are not in the books. I bought 8 pounds of the IMR 4320 powder since I found that the V-max 50gr. with 25.0gr of powder shot well in my savage also.
I wanted to find a load for the Hornady SST 150 gr for my .300 Win Mag but could not locate one in the books. I called hornady and they suggested using the same start load as the Nosler Partition of the same weight. So I went out and shot yesterday using IMR 4320 with 60.0 grains of powder. The groups were only bout 1.2" but with a .308 round that is good enought for me.
So here is my first question.
The holes in the target are not what I would call "clean". They are more or less like a hole with a tear to one side. Does this mean that the rounds are flying too slow and are not spinning correct but are sort of wobbling like a poorly thrown football????? Any input would be nice on this.
My target is placed on one of those wire stands that you can step on to put for sale signs in your yard. There is a 1/4 inch piece of plywood attached to this and then the target is tapped. Makes for a highly portable targes stand and I use the terrain for a proper backstop.
Second question.
I got rid of that old savage 110 friday and bought a single shot bull barrel .223 HK. I have not shot it. I hope it is not a bad choice. I currently use Barska Scopes do to the cost. They are ussually under 100 bucks and are very clear and fog and water proof. I shoot one on my .300 Win Mag that is a 6.5-20-50mm It is clear as can be and stands up to the recoil. I am looking at getting a scope for my new HK .223. I will use this gun mainly for prairie dogs and calling. (hope for singles) I know a straight power 4 or 6 is probably best for calling but I would like something a little larger for shooting prairie dogs towns that offer shots out to 200 or more. Has anyone had a problem with these scopes? I have a Simmons 4-12-40mm currently that I will place on it. It is about ten years old and not too clear. I will use it till I can make an educated choice on what the final optics will be. I know that Leupold and Burris are great, but I simply can not afford them.
Thanks again,
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D. Simpson
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Walter
Druid
Reged: Jan 06 2006
Posts: 156
Loc: Texas north of Dallas
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Are the holes in your targets round ?
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disco1946
Mouse Dipper
Reged: Jul 01 2007
Posts: 656
Loc: Mesa, Arizona
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The target tears are caused by the Plywood recoiling back and ripping the paper. Try cardboard for a backing.
Dave
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I would rather have a sister who is a prostitute, than a brother who is a liberal.
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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Wow I feel dumb 
That makes sense. I will change backings and see what happens. Hopefully it works out since this was my best grouped round so far.
Thanks again.
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D. Simpson
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Willem
Whirling Dervish
Reged: Feb 10 2008
Posts: 58
Loc: Illinois
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A friend of mine bought a Barska out of a sportsman's guide magazine for his AR-15 and we could never get it to group at 100 yards. With iron sights his rifle shot great but once he got that scope and bore sighted it, it was a guessing game as to where the rounds were going to go.
He ended up sending it back telling the company that it couldn't hold a zero, and ended up getting a Nikon. With the change in scope his rifle is a tack driver. Now it may have just been that particular scope and there is nothing wrong with Barska scopes in general, but this is all the experience that I have had with one.
This too is just my 2 cents, but if you've spent the money to buy a reloader and you're taking the time to perfect your rounds, if I were you I'd spend at least a little extra money on a little better glass, other wise what are you going it all for if your rifle can't perform due to a poor sight?
I understand where you're coming from with the high prices of name brand scopes. I've found decent scopes on gunbroker.com and auctionarms.com before that were affordable if that is any help. Like I said just my 2 cents.
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Peace...Through Fire Superiority.
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perth
Dervish
Reged: Dec 14 2003
Posts: 149
Loc: Lincoln, NE USA
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Re: Made the leap
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